QuicRun 10BL60/120 Sensored

Easy Operation

This ESC is specially designed for new beginners and intermediate modelers;
it not only carries forward the outstanding quality of HOBBYWING products
but simplifies the operation.

Easy Operation

Compact Design &
SD/SL Dual Mode Supported

With the compact design, it’s applicable to various chassis.
With the Dual (Sensored/Sensorless) Drive Mode,
it’s compatible with different motors and brings
racers two different control feel.

Compact Design & SD/SL
Dual Mode Supported

High Reliability & Durability

Reliable hardware combined with advanced software technology allows
the QUICRUN 10BL60-SD to not only provide high power output but also
overload protection of the ESC circuit.

High Reliability
& Durability

Efficient Cooling System

Hobbywing patented heat-conductive copper bar cover on the power board
of the QUICRUN 10BL60-SD, which can efficiently and effectively transfer heat to the
integrated CNC machined billet aluminum heat sink housing, combined with
high-performance cooling fan can keep your ESC as cool as possible.

Efficient Cooling System

Single-button Programming & Factory Reset

The SET button on the ESC allows the user to easily program or factory reset the ESC with ease.

Single-button Programming
& Factory Reset

Wide Applicability

This ESC is designed for practice and daily training of1/10^th, 1/12^th scale touring cars, buggies, and F1.

Wide Applicability

Manuals & Documents

Manuals

Software Download

Videos

Application Guidance

FAQ

During the Starting-up Process

The ESC started to smoke right after it was powered on.

Possible Cause(s)	Solution(s)
1. Backward installation of batteries.	1. Refer to the "+, _" mark (on the ESC/battery) and plug the battery in.
2. The input voltage was beyond the ESC opeating voltage.	2. Refer to the user manual and plug in a suitable battery.
3. Water or other foreign material got into the non-waterproof ESC and caused the short circuit.	3. Do not drive your vehicle into a puddle or rain.

The ESC was unable to start the status LED, the motor, and the cooling fan after it was powered on.

Possible Cause(s)	Solution(s)
1. No power was supplied to the ESC.	1. Check if all ESC & battery connectors have been well soldered or firmly connected.
2. The ESC switch was damaged.	2. Replace the broken switch.

The ESC was unable to start the motor after it was powered on, but the motor beeped a short, double beep that repeats. (Note: the interval between two beeps was 1 second)

Possible Cause(s)	Solution(s)
The battery voltage was beyond the normal operationg voltage range of the ESC.	Check the battery voltage.

The ESC was unable to start the motor after it was powered on, but the red LED turned solid.

Possible Cause(s)	Solution(s)
1. The ESC didn't detect any throttle signal.	1. Check if the throttle cable has been plugged into the wrong channel or reversely plugged into the TH channel on the receiver and the transmitter has been switched on.
2. The neutral throttle value stored on your ESC might be different from the current value stored on the transmitter.	2. Move the throttle trigger to the neutral position, recalibrate the throttle range.

The vehicle ran at full speed after the ESC was powered on.

Possible Cause(s)	Solution(s)
1. The throttle range was set incorrectly, the neutal point and full throttle endpoint were set onto the same point.	1. Re-calibrate the throttle range.
2. The receiver didn't receive any throttle signal, the "Failsafe" is activated.	2. Consult the transmitter vendor if it's possible to disable the "Failsafe".

In Operation

The vehicle moved forward/backward slowly when the throttle trigger was at the neutral position.

Possible Cause(s)	Solution(s)
1. The neutral range on the transmitter wasn't stable, and its trembling caused unstable signals.	1. Need to increase the neutral width on the ESC.
2. Didn't calibrate the throttle range properly.	2. Recalibrate the throttle range, or use throttle "trim" on the transmitter to calibrate the nuetral position.

The vehicle suddenly stopped from running or the output power it received dropped dramatically.

Possible Cause(s)	Solution(s)
1. The throttle signal was lost.	1. Consult with transmitter manufacturer, or change another transimtter that can control longer distance/wider range.
2. The LVC protection was activated, the red LED flashed a short, single flash that repeats.	2. Change another bettery. If it's NiMH, then please disable the LVC protection.
3. The ESC temperature was too high and got the thermal protection activated, the green LED on the ESC flashed a short, single flash that repeats.	3. Check the fan to see if it works normally, (continue to use the ESC after it cools down, or change a pinion with fewer teeth, a motor with low KV rating to reduce load.
4. The (sensored) motor temperature was too high and got the thermal protection activated, the green LED on the ESC flashed a short, double flash that repeats.	4. Continue to use the motor after it cools down or change a pinion with fewer teeth. If it's non-HOBBYWING motor, then please disable the "Motor Thermal" protection.
5. The ESC was damaged due to overload.	5. Change a motor with low(er) KV rating or change another ESC with high(er) Amperage.

The vehicle only trembled and couldn't start.

Possible Cause(s)	Solution(s)
1. Poor contact between the ESC and motor connections.	1. Check if gold-plated connectors are loose or poorly soldered.
2. In sensored mode, the ESC-to-motor wires are not connected in the following way: A-A, B-B, and C-C.	2. Strictly follow the "A-A, B-B, C-C" wiring rule.
3. The ESC was damaged.	3. Return the ESC to its manufacturer for repair.
4. The motor was damaged.	4. Return the motor to its manufacturer for repair.

The motor got stuck or paused when increasing the throttle at starting up.

Possible Cause(s)	Solution(s)
1. Poor discharing capability of the pack.	1. Change another pack with great discharging capability.
2. The RPM of the motor was too high, or the FDR was too low.	2. Change a low-speed motor, or increase the FDR.
3. Set the "Punch/Start Mode" to a high level.	3. Set the punch/start mode to a low level.

The vehicle could go forward and brake but couldn't reverse.

Possible Cause(s)	Solution(s)
1. Didn't calibrate the throttle range properly.	1. Recalibrate the throttle range.
2. Didn't set the "running mode" to "FWD/REV with Brake".	2. Set the "running mode" to "FWD/REV with Brake" or factory reset the ESC.
3. The ESC was damaged.	3. Return the ESC to its manufacturer for repair.

The vehicle ran backward when increasing the throttle amount.

Possible Cause(s)	Solution(s)
1. Connected the ESC & motor wires incorrectly.	In sensorless mode, swap any two motor-to-ESC wires.
2. The chassis was different from popular chassis.	In sensorless mode, swap any two motor-to-ESC wires.

Relevant Settings

The ESC was unable to connect a program box (three "---" lines was displayed on the LCD/LED program box.)

Possible Cause(s)	Solution(s)
1. Reversely plugged the programming cable into the port on program box or plugged the programming cable into the wrong port on programbox. .	1. Refer to the silkscreen mark beneath/above the program port on the program box and plug the programming cable in.
2. Something wrong with the ESC or the program box.	2. Return the ESC/program box to factory for repair.

It was unable to complete the throttle range calibration.

Possible Cause(s)	Solution(s)
1. The throttle cable was not plugged into the right channel but other channel like ST channel.	1. Plug the throttle cable into the channel marked with "TH" letters on the receiver.
2. The throttle cable was reversely plugged into the channel.	2. Check the corrensponding mark on the receiver and then plug in the throttle cable correctly.